Sunday was a special day for Hindus. In honor of Lord Shiva, we all went to Kalkaji to pray and, for me, to observe. The visit served to re-enforce the fact that I know shamefully little about Hinduism and the various practices of the religion. It’s not a good idea to go to a religious site with nothing more than vague expectations, and I probably would have gotten a lot more out of the experience had I been armed with at least a little knowledge. It was definitely a learning experience nonetheless, and defied pretty much all of my expectations.
Forget the notion that a temple is a place to find quiet and serenity. There was nothing of the sort here. Everything about this place was crowded and loud: vendors yelling to sell you beads and jewelry, cooks calling out orders as they made breads for offerings, children crying from the heat, dogs barking, devotees chanting, beggars pandering for money and food. About half way toward the end of the line to get into the temple we respectfully removed our shoes and proceeded barefoot into the street (yea, the line was that long). I couldn’t help but think of the children I’ve seen running around day after day without shoes as I stood there, my feet being scalded by the filthy, crumbling pavement. My turn to get a small glimpse of their life. That thought really helped me put things into perspective; any complaints I might have had completely disappeared. Thinking of them, I didn’t mind stepping through trash, water, over broken rocks and between the bodies of dogs and people sprawled down the middle of the pathway. If the city’s poor did this every day, I could do it for an hour.
The temple was a world of extremes. I saw human beauty and strength juxtaposed with unimaginable suffering and disease. Woven within a sea of beautifully adorned devotees were the lives of widows and orphans, diseased and destitute. Before my eyes, the third world and first world collided. Children with flies in their eyes held their hands toward me, hoping a coin or two would fall into their waiting palms. Hairless dogs lay panting against walls, the mange that covered their bodies quickly taking over the sickly forms of the puppies by their side. And time after time I saw some of the worst amputations and most disfiguring deformities imaginable. While many were the effects of polio or other diseases (that rarely make themselves known in countries like the US, where adequate health care and preventative measures are avalible to all), others were the mark of mafia violence. Not everything was hopeless though. Every twenty minutes or so people would come to the beggars carrying food and water to distribute. These were the remains of the offerings I’d seen being bought earlier. After being set before the images of Shiva, they were given freely to anyone who asked.
Eventually we made our way into the temple. All of us women covered our heads with our scarves before crossing the entrance. Everyone crushed around me, all shouting and pushing to be the first to enter and receive a handful of sweetened rice - the token of our visit. The inside of the temple was decorated with silver and gold and countless flowers. But there was no time to pause and enjoy the beauty. People were pushed out as quickly as they entered. Many reached up to ring the bells hanging overhead (not sure of their significance yet), and before I knew it we were making our way back onto the street. This time, however, I stepped on the pavement with the newfound knowledge of the scalding temperatures being held at bay by the soles of my shoes.
Anyway! I don’t mean to always sound so depressing. I feel like all I talk about is the poverty I see! It does bother me though; I’m looking forward to getting to Pune so I can get involved in NGOs and start to contribute to part of the solution. Until then, I’ll just have to learn as much as I can from observation alone, and keep filling my down time with way too many Bollywood movies and books. I’ve been able to pick up movies for Rs. 90-150 (US $2-3.50), depending on how old they are. So far, I’ve watched:
Kal Ho Naa Ho
Paheli
Guru
Delhi-6
Rang De Basanti
Lagaan
Kismat Konnection (The only one I’ve found that wasn’t very good...)
Jab We Met
3 Idiots
The last two were on Shrishti’s computer, and I didn’t get to see the end of 3 Idiots because it didn’t download right. I tried to buy it but, as is the case with pretty much all of Aamir Kahn’s movies, it was super expensive - Rs. 500 (proof that your perspective on the value of money changes quickly, this is about US $10). I’ll wait a few months for the price to go down. The movie is one of the biggest hits of all time here, and Aamir Kahn (the leading actor) is a marketing genius. Everything with him in it sells for four or five times the price of other movies. I must say though, he and Shah Rukh Khan are stealing my heart. I’ve watched their movies three or more times, and they still haven’t gotten old. Bollywood is so much better than Hollywood. Everything is done with overflowing love and passion and MUSIC. Movies are all full of singing and dancing - really, really good dancing. And quite a few of them make social statements relevant to the times, and incorporate current issues in their plots. Talk about a way to reach out to the masses. Back to the dancing though - I’m going to learn how it’s done. I’m quickly coming to the conclusion that there’s going to be at least one Bollywood dance scene at my wedding.
Thursday, August 12, 2010
It is raining like CRAZY right now!
Everything’s flooded. Shrishti’s dad can’t even get home from work because they’ve closed down all the roads. It poured like this yesterday too. I spent a good bit of time getting soaked while spinning in circles kicking up the rain from the roof. You know the Bollywood scenes in monsoon rains? It was like that, only better. Now all I need is some handsome chap to come and sweep me off my feet. Then the movie will be complete. But one can’t be a lonely superstar for forever, so eventually I gave up the dream and plopped down on the concrete. Laying there with the rain streaming down my face, pooling around my arms, I was in heaven. It was wonderful.
Anyway, I’ll attempt to catch up on the last week in as few words as possible. I’m never one to be short-winded though, so no promises. Since I last wrote I’ve been lucky enough to make it to the Baha’i Lotus Temple, the Qutub Minar, and Kalkaji, one of the most famous Hindu temples in the world. I still haven’t made it to a mosque, as Shrishti isn’t too keen on the idea, but I’ll make it before I go, even if it’s not while in Delhi.
Going to the Lotus Temple was like a dream come true. As a kid seeing pictures and news of it’s construction, I was always fascinated by the architectural marvel. I couldn’t understand how anyone could build such an intricate building, a building that represented so much not only for the Faith, but also for the nation whose people’s hard work and dedication went into its construction. Eleven years later, I’ve gotten the chance I never would have dreamed of - to experience the paradise I’d seen from afar in person. It was a powerful moment, to sit inside the folds of the flower and gaze up at the nine pointed star that formed where the petals met in the ceiling. But not everything stood up to my childhood illusions of perfection. Just outside the gates of the temple were the faded blue tarps - the houses of the slums. The fingers of poverty sprawled across the landscape for all to see. Armed guards kept watch at the gate as visitors passed through metal detectors and, once inside, people were herded into lines before being ushered, one by one, into the center of the temple. Saddened, I realized this place of spirituality has not been untouched by the violence and chaos of the city it calls home.
However disappointed I was after taking one more step toward understanding the state of the world, I was still able to enjoy the relative peace and quiet I found there. Once some of the volunteers there realized I am (was? ish..) a Baha’i, I was treated like a royal guest. No more security, no more lines, no more rigid rules. I was taken EVERYWHERE, even places that are off limits to the public, and allowed to talk for quite some time with the volunteers. I met three people from areas in or around Pune, so I’ll hopefully be able to meet up with them while I’m there. It was so nice to FINALLY be able to talk to people and be welcomed with open arms. I’ve missed having my friends around, and been waiting anxiously for the time when I’ll be able to form new relationships here. Spending a few hours with people I could converse with finally made me feel as though I am making a bit of progress. Though I enjoy being able to relax, it’s frustrating to feel as though I’m not doing anything productive. I spend a lot of time in relative solitude. Even when I’m around people, on the streets or at Shrishti’s house, I still feel like I’m living in a world of my own. Welcome to language barriers.
I’d love to be able to converse in Hindi, but even I realize it’s unrealistic to expect to pick up a new language in just over a week. Especially when you’re only hearing it, and have absolutely no former understanding of basic words, not to mention sentence structure. I’ve learned a few words: chalo (let’s go), jaldi (faster/quickly), buntar (monkey), but those hardly allow me to have basic communication, not to mention conversation. Luckily pretty much everyone is relatively fluent in English, so they at least understand what I’m saying even if they respond in Hindi. Though I get frustrated, I know that it’s unfair to expect people to talk in English just because they are with me. So, I’m trying to adjust to letting life happen around me and relying on observation to figure out what’s going on.
The Qutub Minar was breathtaking. I’ll have to find more specifics on its history when I have internet access. It’s kind of crazy
to think about something existing, it’s pristine beauty in tact, for so many years. I think it was built sometime in the 1300s, and it still boasts it’s original designs and magnitude. The entire place blew me away. It’s the kind of thing you see on National Geographic or the Discovery Channel. How on earth did I end up here, walking around the former strongholds of ancient civilizations?! I wonder if the people thought, as they were building it, about what future generations would think. Did they even fathom it would be around hundreds and hundreds of years later? Their footprint has withstood the test of time, leaving us with shining examples of human excellence. It makes me wonder though... what will our footprint be? What will we leave for future generations to see?
Anyway, I’ll attempt to catch up on the last week in as few words as possible. I’m never one to be short-winded though, so no promises. Since I last wrote I’ve been lucky enough to make it to the Baha’i Lotus Temple, the Qutub Minar, and Kalkaji, one of the most famous Hindu temples in the world. I still haven’t made it to a mosque, as Shrishti isn’t too keen on the idea, but I’ll make it before I go, even if it’s not while in Delhi.
Going to the Lotus Temple was like a dream come true. As a kid seeing pictures and news of it’s construction, I was always fascinated by the architectural marvel. I couldn’t understand how anyone could build such an intricate building, a building that represented so much not only for the Faith, but also for the nation whose people’s hard work and dedication went into its construction. Eleven years later, I’ve gotten the chance I never would have dreamed of - to experience the paradise I’d seen from afar in person. It was a powerful moment, to sit inside the folds of the flower and gaze up at the nine pointed star that formed where the petals met in the ceiling. But not everything stood up to my childhood illusions of perfection. Just outside the gates of the temple were the faded blue tarps - the houses of the slums. The fingers of poverty sprawled across the landscape for all to see. Armed guards kept watch at the gate as visitors passed through metal detectors and, once inside, people were herded into lines before being ushered, one by one, into the center of the temple. Saddened, I realized this place of spirituality has not been untouched by the violence and chaos of the city it calls home. However disappointed I was after taking one more step toward understanding the state of the world, I was still able to enjoy the relative peace and quiet I found there. Once some of the volunteers there realized I am (was? ish..) a Baha’i, I was treated like a royal guest. No more security, no more lines, no more rigid rules. I was taken EVERYWHERE, even places that are off limits to the public, and allowed to talk for quite some time with the volunteers. I met three people from areas in or around Pune, so I’ll hopefully be able to meet up with them while I’m there. It was so nice to FINALLY be able to talk to people and be welcomed with open arms. I’ve missed having my friends around, and been waiting anxiously for the time when I’ll be able to form new relationships here. Spending a few hours with people I could converse with finally made me feel as though I am making a bit of progress. Though I enjoy being able to relax, it’s frustrating to feel as though I’m not doing anything productive. I spend a lot of time in relative solitude. Even when I’m around people, on the streets or at Shrishti’s house, I still feel like I’m living in a world of my own. Welcome to language barriers.
I’d love to be able to converse in Hindi, but even I realize it’s unrealistic to expect to pick up a new language in just over a week. Especially when you’re only hearing it, and have absolutely no former understanding of basic words, not to mention sentence structure. I’ve learned a few words: chalo (let’s go), jaldi (faster/quickly), buntar (monkey), but those hardly allow me to have basic communication, not to mention conversation. Luckily pretty much everyone is relatively fluent in English, so they at least understand what I’m saying even if they respond in Hindi. Though I get frustrated, I know that it’s unfair to expect people to talk in English just because they are with me. So, I’m trying to adjust to letting life happen around me and relying on observation to figure out what’s going on.
The Qutub Minar was breathtaking. I’ll have to find more specifics on its history when I have internet access. It’s kind of crazy
to think about something existing, it’s pristine beauty in tact, for so many years. I think it was built sometime in the 1300s, and it still boasts it’s original designs and magnitude. The entire place blew me away. It’s the kind of thing you see on National Geographic or the Discovery Channel. How on earth did I end up here, walking around the former strongholds of ancient civilizations?! I wonder if the people thought, as they were building it, about what future generations would think. Did they even fathom it would be around hundreds and hundreds of years later? Their footprint has withstood the test of time, leaving us with shining examples of human excellence. It makes me wonder though... what will our footprint be? What will we leave for future generations to see?
Wednesday, August 11, 2010
This one's going to have to be short!
But I wanted to say hi! Things here are still going splendidly, but I have very little internet access to posting is a bit tough. Once I'm in Pune I'll be a bit more reliable I hope! Life is still filled with adventures, all of which I will go into more detail on when time permits. But! I've been getting a ton of reading done sitting on the rooftop of Shrishti's building watching the world go by. I also was able to make some new friends at the Baha'i Temple here. Funny, 'cause I watched in awe as images of it's construction were passed to me throughout my childhood, and always marveled at how beautiful it was. I never would have dreamed I would get to see it in person! I also got to go to the Qutub Minar and a super famous Hindu temple (I'll have to get back to you on the name...). It was quite the experience, and nothing like I would have expected a temple atmopshere to be.
Yesterday I got to dance in the monsoon rains on the rooftop. Talk about a downpour - I was completely soaked in 10 seconds flat. There were people on other roofs bathing in it. Not a bad idea when it's pouring that hard! The streets were all flooded, but that's normal, right?
Anyway, I'll be writing about all this stuff (Lotus Temple, Qutub Minar, Hindu temple experiences, etc) super super soon and posting pictures on here too! But for now I have to go brave the heat and make my way to Kahn Market to find a power convertor to take with me to Pune on Sunday. Hugs from Delhi!
Yesterday I got to dance in the monsoon rains on the rooftop. Talk about a downpour - I was completely soaked in 10 seconds flat. There were people on other roofs bathing in it. Not a bad idea when it's pouring that hard! The streets were all flooded, but that's normal, right?
Anyway, I'll be writing about all this stuff (Lotus Temple, Qutub Minar, Hindu temple experiences, etc) super super soon and posting pictures on here too! But for now I have to go brave the heat and make my way to Kahn Market to find a power convertor to take with me to Pune on Sunday. Hugs from Delhi!
Monday, August 2, 2010
I looooove it here!
I had the best Indian food EVER today! This will probably become a fairly regular statement over the next few months... but wow! It was some kind of dosa at a South Indian restaurant by Kahn Market in New Delhi. I’ll have to remember to start taking pictures of these dishes, but for now just trust me that it was incredible. Everything is eaten with your hand which, judging by Shrishti’s mom’s reaction to how easily I did it, is something a lot of of [USo]Americans are bothered by. I guess I’ve adapted unusually well/quickly to life here, but honestly nothing has really bothered me. I love the crowds, the noise, the smells. It adds flavor to the world. I always have my finger on the throbbing pulse of the city - everything is alive! Cars honking, rickshaws clanging their bells, people yelling, birds calling, dogs barking. The smells change as the wind shifts, or as you walk a few feet in any direction. Vibrant colors are everywhere, whether it’s fruit accenting dusty stands or the clothing draped across the women stepping over trash, mud puddles or sleeping dogs on the street.
This morning everyone piled in the car to go to the India Gate and the President’s House. Moisture from the light drizzle clung to the air, creating a beautiful haze over everything. It was a little overwhelming, standing at these historic sites I’ve seen so often in pictures and movies but never dreamed I’d have the opportunity to visit. I can’t begin to express how lucky I feel every day I wake up and discover that this is not just a wonderful dream. I was finally able to take some pictures without feeling like a touristy idiot - that’s what happens when you’re able to blend in with the 50 bajillion other tourists there! It’s touching to see how close families are here too. Many years from now, when I finally settle down, I hope that my home will be as close, as happy as this one. And the mangos... Oh the mangos! They are SOOOO good. And so easy to get - just hop down the stairs and across the street, and there they are being sold for super super cheep! Two, three, four a day... and it’s never enough.
Sunday, August 1, 2010
Mangos and monkeys.
They’re everywhere! I was laying with Shrishti, her sister and her mom watching some Bollywood movie (that I didn’t understand a word of :p) when I saw something flash by the door outside. Three monkeys! Probably the same ones from last night. There was the mom, and two babies. One of the babies was hanging below it’s mom’s belly and the other scurried behind them. They were sooooo cute!!! It was a nice distraction after being stuck inside all day. Not that sitting around doing absolutely nothing wasn’t wonderful... I’ve been camped out in front of the terrace listening to the world pass by while I read. I had forgotten how nice it is to have time for anything I want to do!
Last night I went up and sat on the rooftop of the building. It’s so peaceful there. At midnight a lot of the noise has calmed down, and a gentle breeze made the temperature perfect. The best part wasn’t the peace and serenity though. Just before leaving I turned and noticed two shapes on the roof opposite of where I was. Monkeys! A mom and her baby. I spent ALL DAY looking for monkeys, and finally I find them when it’s too dark to really see them well! I was super excited, but Shrishti was freaked and insisted we leave immediately before getting attacked. They looked harmless to me, just looking around to see what woke them up. I hope I can find more soon!
Lesson of the day: never expect the drainage system in Delhi to be functional. It’s been raining most of the morning. Actually that’s an understatement. It’s POURING. The streets were flooded within the first 20 minutes. 2-3ft of water in some places. Quite the introduction to the real meaning of "monsoon." There’s HUGE “jams” (traffic jams) all over the city and, judging by what’s being shown on the news, there will be quite a few people stuck for a looong time yet. Places in the road have collapsed and hundreds of drivers are stranded, but the children are having fun! Out dancing and splashing in the muck. There are even people kayaking through the traffic. How fun it must be to paddle between the stranded cars! Start charging the drivers to take them to dryer ground. :p People act like it’s no big deal though; back in the US something like this would wreck havoc, people would be absolutely panicked. I’ll take the boats over panic any day.
Yesterday was a lot of fun. I got my first taste of an Indian market, with all it’s sights, sounds and smells. There were soooo many people, walking around, trying to sell me spools of yarn, clothing, purses, food, etc. Well dressed girls walked right past children clothed only in rags, carrying burlap sacks full of trash. The bags were as big as they were. I felt bad for them, and for the countless beggars young and old that held their hands toward me. Their eyes were so sad, so tired. As with the children I saw on the roadside, they had no shoes and only dirty rags for clothes. I hope next time I can at least offer them food, maybe even a clean outfit. Until then I’ll have to just keep reminding myself that, as much as I might want to, I can’t give handouts to everyone. Better to try to change the system, to create a world in which each child can get an education, where parents can get decent jobs that don’t force the kids to drop out of school, where families can get enough food and clothes to wear. Little by little.
Anyway, back to the rest of the market. It was fascinating to walk around and let myself be transported from one world to another as I rounded a corner or passed through a shop door. Everything changes in an instant - the sickly sweet stench of urine and trash is replaced by the delicious smell of food cooking alongside ripening mangos; crowds of beggars turn into throngs of eager shoppers; you turn one way and a quiet street becomes a busy road with rickshaws competing with the oncoming traffic (yes, they go against traffic if it looks like it might be faster. Safe? I didn’t think so either. But it all works out, so I guess they know what they’re doing!). I picked up my first Indian outfit, and man is it comfortable! Not to mention I finally look a little more like I belong here. Got a set of cloth to take to a tailor as well. There it will be turned into an entire set - shirt, pants and scarf. It was a steal at Rs. 150 ($3), even Shrishti’s mom was impressed!
Well, the doorbell’s competing with the call to prayer from the local mosque, which means pizza (Dominoes! In India! What?!) has arrived.
Last night I went up and sat on the rooftop of the building. It’s so peaceful there. At midnight a lot of the noise has calmed down, and a gentle breeze made the temperature perfect. The best part wasn’t the peace and serenity though. Just before leaving I turned and noticed two shapes on the roof opposite of where I was. Monkeys! A mom and her baby. I spent ALL DAY looking for monkeys, and finally I find them when it’s too dark to really see them well! I was super excited, but Shrishti was freaked and insisted we leave immediately before getting attacked. They looked harmless to me, just looking around to see what woke them up. I hope I can find more soon!
Lesson of the day: never expect the drainage system in Delhi to be functional. It’s been raining most of the morning. Actually that’s an understatement. It’s POURING. The streets were flooded within the first 20 minutes. 2-3ft of water in some places. Quite the introduction to the real meaning of "monsoon." There’s HUGE “jams” (traffic jams) all over the city and, judging by what’s being shown on the news, there will be quite a few people stuck for a looong time yet. Places in the road have collapsed and hundreds of drivers are stranded, but the children are having fun! Out dancing and splashing in the muck. There are even people kayaking through the traffic. How fun it must be to paddle between the stranded cars! Start charging the drivers to take them to dryer ground. :p People act like it’s no big deal though; back in the US something like this would wreck havoc, people would be absolutely panicked. I’ll take the boats over panic any day.
Yesterday was a lot of fun. I got my first taste of an Indian market, with all it’s sights, sounds and smells. There were soooo many people, walking around, trying to sell me spools of yarn, clothing, purses, food, etc. Well dressed girls walked right past children clothed only in rags, carrying burlap sacks full of trash. The bags were as big as they were. I felt bad for them, and for the countless beggars young and old that held their hands toward me. Their eyes were so sad, so tired. As with the children I saw on the roadside, they had no shoes and only dirty rags for clothes. I hope next time I can at least offer them food, maybe even a clean outfit. Until then I’ll have to just keep reminding myself that, as much as I might want to, I can’t give handouts to everyone. Better to try to change the system, to create a world in which each child can get an education, where parents can get decent jobs that don’t force the kids to drop out of school, where families can get enough food and clothes to wear. Little by little.
Anyway, back to the rest of the market. It was fascinating to walk around and let myself be transported from one world to another as I rounded a corner or passed through a shop door. Everything changes in an instant - the sickly sweet stench of urine and trash is replaced by the delicious smell of food cooking alongside ripening mangos; crowds of beggars turn into throngs of eager shoppers; you turn one way and a quiet street becomes a busy road with rickshaws competing with the oncoming traffic (yes, they go against traffic if it looks like it might be faster. Safe? I didn’t think so either. But it all works out, so I guess they know what they’re doing!). I picked up my first Indian outfit, and man is it comfortable! Not to mention I finally look a little more like I belong here. Got a set of cloth to take to a tailor as well. There it will be turned into an entire set - shirt, pants and scarf. It was a steal at Rs. 150 ($3), even Shrishti’s mom was impressed!
Well, the doorbell’s competing with the call to prayer from the local mosque, which means pizza (Dominoes! In India! What?!) has arrived.
Saturday, July 31, 2010
Hello Delhiiii!
Where to even begin! New Delhi is unlike anything I’ve ever experienced back home. Noise, traffic, people EVERYWHERE!
So the flight over was pretty entertaining. I nearly missed my flight to Delhi because there were two-hour delays in Chicago. Managed to sprint through the airport and onto the plane right as the last people were boarding. And then we settled down for 15 hours of boredom. Really it wasn’t bad though, ‘cause I ended up sitting by a handsome, charming Indian boy named Soumick who was more than happy to talk to me about Indian vs. American life for much of the flight. He’s a grad student at the University of Missouri, and was headed home to Calcutta for the first time since he moved to the US a year ago. He kept telling me how foreign everything in the US seemed, and sitting here in Delhi I’m beginning to understand why! For everyone who told me New Delhi is like the US... I’m not convinced. Apparently Delhi and Calcutta are nothing alike either, but I’m sure they share more similarities between themselves than either do with the US.
I was a bit shocked when I got off the plane in India and was immediately face to face with uniformed men carrying Ak-47s. According to Shrishti, security is getting ramped up because it’s getting close to Independence Day (Aug 15th). I’m kind of sad I won’t be in Delhi for the celebrations (fly to Mumbai on the 14th), but I’m sure the scene in Pune will be entertaining as well! Anyway, after Soumick and I navigated our way through customs and waited and waited and waited for our bags at the baggage claim. He was quite the gentleman, and refused to leave my side until I was safely delivered into the competent hands of Shrishti and her father. According to him, I was in his country now and must consider myself his guest. A Carleton professor I met before leaving Northfield told me that, no matter what, someone would always take care of me while in India. I was skeptical before, but now I don’t know - maybe it isn’t too good of a promise to be true. Soumick’s kindness certainly left me with a good first impression of India! And then we hit the streets...
I got my first hint at the poverty I would encounter as we flew over northern India at sunset. You could clearly see the boarder between Afghanistan and India - one side was all red dirt, and the other side was green. If you were to take a snapshot as dusk fell, however, you’d never be able to tell the two countries apart - there’s nothing but black. The same picture in the US would have been dotted with lights from houses, street lamps, cars... but there was none of that here. Only the occasional cluster of light, surrounded by darkness. Why? I don’t really know, and I don’t want to jump to the conclusion that poverty is the sole culprit when there are probably many other contributing factors as well. But I’m sure that’s at least a large part of it. Maybe I can find out more details soon. So, based off of that observation and the numerous warnings I’ve had from friends who have traveled here and books I’ve read, I’d braced myself for what I would encounter once I was finally out on the streets of Delhi. No amount of reading could have really prepared me for what I saw last night and this morning though. People, children, are everywhere - sleeping on the sides of streets, under bridges, squatting under tarps held up by a stick. Some are naked, many have no shoes, most are dressed in dusty rags. Stray dogs keep them company, small puppies nip at the heels of children. One little boy, probably no more than seven or eight, held his naked baby sister away from the dogs with one arm as he wiped sweat from her face with the other. No one walking past seemed to notice him. But I did, and from my air conditioned seat in the car I couldn’t help but feel guilty that there was nothing I could do to help. Five minutes after seeing the boy, I was face to face with a beggar girl, also holding a small child. She was probably the same age as the boy, and her eyes looked so sad and tired as she went from car to car, hand outstretched.. empty... At her age I was doing gymnastics and going to school. Where will she be when she is my age?
On to happier things - now that I’m over my initial shock at the traffic system here, I’m discovering that it’s wildly entertaining to ride down the streets. You know how in America people generally assume that everyone will follow the traffic laws, stay between the lines, stop at stop lights, etc? Yea well, there’s none of that here. People do whatever they want - drive on the lines, between them, on the side of the road on places you’d swear no car would ever fit. You come within 1/2 an inch of the cars around you, but somehow make it out without so much as a scratch. Rickshaws go against traffic which causes some massive traffic jams. EVERYONE honks, all the time, but it’s not really rude or done out of anger. It’s more like making sure everyone around you knows you exist, otherwise you’re going to get plowed over! They manage to fit an insane number of people into cars, too. I saw people riding on top of buses, in the backs of trucks cushioned by trash bags, 3 or 4 people on a motorcycle. One time there were two kids crammed between their parents, all on one small motorcycle. Those things are insane too, weaving in and out of cars like they are standing still. It’s almost like a game, really - see who can pass the most cars in the shortest amount of time. At least they *all* wear helmets! I’m finding that I’m the center of attention too, even while riding in the car. People will pull up beside us and slow down to stare at me for a minute before moving on. Not that I can blame them - I haven’t seen a single other “white person” around (yay!). Oh, and, I found Cadbury chocolate! It's in a little shop right across the street from where I'm staying. All of my worries about not having my chocolate fixes have dissolved - plus it's super cheap. Maybe $.25 for a chocolate bar that costs $8-10 in the US.
Noise. There’s lots of it. Horns blaring all day and night, people yelling, fans blowing, music, and the occasional calls of birds as they chase each other from tree to tree. The pollution is a bit stifling as well. Part of me hopes that I can forget what clean air smells like so I won’t notice so much. Last night I felt like I was being suffocated because the air is so thick and smells of smoke and dust. It’s like a grey haze has settled over everything and absolutely refuses to budge. The rain didn’t help much, other than to cool the air a bit. It will get better though, as I get used to things. And maybe Pune won’t be this polluted. The heat is slightly overwhelming, mostly because it’s so humid. This makes South Carolina look dry! I’ll be getting some Indian clothes soon, which should allow for better airflow and make things much more comfortable (and help me blend in!).
Anyway, it’s a beautiful day out! It just rained and things are bustling outside. Perfect time to go do a bit of shopping! I’ll write more soon, probably later today - there’s just so much to tell about!
¡Hasta luego from New Delhi!
So the flight over was pretty entertaining. I nearly missed my flight to Delhi because there were two-hour delays in Chicago. Managed to sprint through the airport and onto the plane right as the last people were boarding. And then we settled down for 15 hours of boredom. Really it wasn’t bad though, ‘cause I ended up sitting by a handsome, charming Indian boy named Soumick who was more than happy to talk to me about Indian vs. American life for much of the flight. He’s a grad student at the University of Missouri, and was headed home to Calcutta for the first time since he moved to the US a year ago. He kept telling me how foreign everything in the US seemed, and sitting here in Delhi I’m beginning to understand why! For everyone who told me New Delhi is like the US... I’m not convinced. Apparently Delhi and Calcutta are nothing alike either, but I’m sure they share more similarities between themselves than either do with the US.
I was a bit shocked when I got off the plane in India and was immediately face to face with uniformed men carrying Ak-47s. According to Shrishti, security is getting ramped up because it’s getting close to Independence Day (Aug 15th). I’m kind of sad I won’t be in Delhi for the celebrations (fly to Mumbai on the 14th), but I’m sure the scene in Pune will be entertaining as well! Anyway, after Soumick and I navigated our way through customs and waited and waited and waited for our bags at the baggage claim. He was quite the gentleman, and refused to leave my side until I was safely delivered into the competent hands of Shrishti and her father. According to him, I was in his country now and must consider myself his guest. A Carleton professor I met before leaving Northfield told me that, no matter what, someone would always take care of me while in India. I was skeptical before, but now I don’t know - maybe it isn’t too good of a promise to be true. Soumick’s kindness certainly left me with a good first impression of India! And then we hit the streets...
I got my first hint at the poverty I would encounter as we flew over northern India at sunset. You could clearly see the boarder between Afghanistan and India - one side was all red dirt, and the other side was green. If you were to take a snapshot as dusk fell, however, you’d never be able to tell the two countries apart - there’s nothing but black. The same picture in the US would have been dotted with lights from houses, street lamps, cars... but there was none of that here. Only the occasional cluster of light, surrounded by darkness. Why? I don’t really know, and I don’t want to jump to the conclusion that poverty is the sole culprit when there are probably many other contributing factors as well. But I’m sure that’s at least a large part of it. Maybe I can find out more details soon. So, based off of that observation and the numerous warnings I’ve had from friends who have traveled here and books I’ve read, I’d braced myself for what I would encounter once I was finally out on the streets of Delhi. No amount of reading could have really prepared me for what I saw last night and this morning though. People, children, are everywhere - sleeping on the sides of streets, under bridges, squatting under tarps held up by a stick. Some are naked, many have no shoes, most are dressed in dusty rags. Stray dogs keep them company, small puppies nip at the heels of children. One little boy, probably no more than seven or eight, held his naked baby sister away from the dogs with one arm as he wiped sweat from her face with the other. No one walking past seemed to notice him. But I did, and from my air conditioned seat in the car I couldn’t help but feel guilty that there was nothing I could do to help. Five minutes after seeing the boy, I was face to face with a beggar girl, also holding a small child. She was probably the same age as the boy, and her eyes looked so sad and tired as she went from car to car, hand outstretched.. empty... At her age I was doing gymnastics and going to school. Where will she be when she is my age?
On to happier things - now that I’m over my initial shock at the traffic system here, I’m discovering that it’s wildly entertaining to ride down the streets. You know how in America people generally assume that everyone will follow the traffic laws, stay between the lines, stop at stop lights, etc? Yea well, there’s none of that here. People do whatever they want - drive on the lines, between them, on the side of the road on places you’d swear no car would ever fit. You come within 1/2 an inch of the cars around you, but somehow make it out without so much as a scratch. Rickshaws go against traffic which causes some massive traffic jams. EVERYONE honks, all the time, but it’s not really rude or done out of anger. It’s more like making sure everyone around you knows you exist, otherwise you’re going to get plowed over! They manage to fit an insane number of people into cars, too. I saw people riding on top of buses, in the backs of trucks cushioned by trash bags, 3 or 4 people on a motorcycle. One time there were two kids crammed between their parents, all on one small motorcycle. Those things are insane too, weaving in and out of cars like they are standing still. It’s almost like a game, really - see who can pass the most cars in the shortest amount of time. At least they *all* wear helmets! I’m finding that I’m the center of attention too, even while riding in the car. People will pull up beside us and slow down to stare at me for a minute before moving on. Not that I can blame them - I haven’t seen a single other “white person” around (yay!). Oh, and, I found Cadbury chocolate! It's in a little shop right across the street from where I'm staying. All of my worries about not having my chocolate fixes have dissolved - plus it's super cheap. Maybe $.25 for a chocolate bar that costs $8-10 in the US.
Noise. There’s lots of it. Horns blaring all day and night, people yelling, fans blowing, music, and the occasional calls of birds as they chase each other from tree to tree. The pollution is a bit stifling as well. Part of me hopes that I can forget what clean air smells like so I won’t notice so much. Last night I felt like I was being suffocated because the air is so thick and smells of smoke and dust. It’s like a grey haze has settled over everything and absolutely refuses to budge. The rain didn’t help much, other than to cool the air a bit. It will get better though, as I get used to things. And maybe Pune won’t be this polluted. The heat is slightly overwhelming, mostly because it’s so humid. This makes South Carolina look dry! I’ll be getting some Indian clothes soon, which should allow for better airflow and make things much more comfortable (and help me blend in!).
Anyway, it’s a beautiful day out! It just rained and things are bustling outside. Perfect time to go do a bit of shopping! I’ll write more soon, probably later today - there’s just so much to tell about!
¡Hasta luego from New Delhi!
Thursday, July 29, 2010
¡Hasta Luego!
This is my last post from the States - next stop, New Delhi, India! I can't wait to get there and experience the new food, sights, smells, people... a whole new life! The last few weeks in the United States have been absolutely incredible. Class and work both ended well, though waving goodbye to Olaf was bittersweet. I spent the last week in Colorado, and can't even begin to describe how incredible it was. I always forget how much I miss Boulder until I go back and watch the moon rise over the city from the side of a mountain. It was an absolute blast to catch up with old friends, make new friends, and climb a few mountains. Best of all, however, was getting the opportunity to meet with the Fellows at the Unreasonable Institute (http://www.unreasonableinstitute.org/)! It was a breath of fresh air to be surrounded by incredibly smart, talented, kind, and HUMBLE social entrepreneurs who were as willing to let me into their world as I was to let them into mine. The experience has definitely left me with the key to open many, many doors.
Trina Talukdar, one of the fellows, will be headed back to Mumbai mid-August. She has founded Kranti (http://unreasonableinstitute.org/fellows/kranti-new-approach-to-women-trafficking/), an organization that works to rehabilitate trafficked women. She has a ton of connections throughout India, including in Pune, with HIV/AIDS organizations (what I'm researching), and just other cool people. She's going to get me in touch with them, and has also invited me to come stay with her in Mumbai whenever I want, to visit and get involved with getting Kranti up and running. We have also discussed traveling to Bangalore together, where she has the most connections, to meet with a few NGOs, visit her friends, etc. That's all in the baby stages of planning, but definitely an exciting possibility!
Few last minute things:
- I'll be posting on here a lot more than I'll be sending emails, so check back for updates, leave comments if you like, etc!
- and I've become an ACM ambassador: http://www.acm.edu/off_campus_study/profiles/35
- my phone # won't work in India (obviously), so email me here or at stolaf.edu. and/or add me on skype (mabodie)
- I finally have my address in India. It is:
Meghan Bodie
ACM India Studies Program
c/o Kalachhaya 270
D Patrakar Nagar Road
Shivajinagar
Pune 411 016
Maharashtra, India
Anyway, I've got to go jump on a plane! I'll write more soon!
Sending love from Minneapolis, USA
Trina Talukdar, one of the fellows, will be headed back to Mumbai mid-August. She has founded Kranti (http://unreasonableinstitute.org/fellows/kranti-new-approach-to-women-trafficking/), an organization that works to rehabilitate trafficked women. She has a ton of connections throughout India, including in Pune, with HIV/AIDS organizations (what I'm researching), and just other cool people. She's going to get me in touch with them, and has also invited me to come stay with her in Mumbai whenever I want, to visit and get involved with getting Kranti up and running. We have also discussed traveling to Bangalore together, where she has the most connections, to meet with a few NGOs, visit her friends, etc. That's all in the baby stages of planning, but definitely an exciting possibility!
Few last minute things:
- I'll be posting on here a lot more than I'll be sending emails, so check back for updates, leave comments if you like, etc!
- and I've become an ACM ambassador: http://www.acm.edu/off_campus_study/profiles/35
- my phone # won't work in India (obviously), so email me here or at stolaf.edu. and/or add me on skype (mabodie)
- I finally have my address in India. It is:
Meghan Bodie
ACM India Studies Program
c/o Kalachhaya 270
D Patrakar Nagar Road
Shivajinagar
Pune 411 016
Maharashtra, India
Anyway, I've got to go jump on a plane! I'll write more soon!
Sending love from Minneapolis, USA
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